Reviewed · EDINBURGH GHOST TOURS
Edinburgh: Witches & Haunted History Walking Tour
Edinburgh’s witch stories are not confined to spooky tales. This walking tour connects them to real streets, homes, churches, and execution sites, giving you a darker view of the Old Town than a standard sightseeing walk. Guides such as Juniper, Hazel, and Angelica use theatrical storytelling, humor, and historical detail to bring the past into focus.
I like the short, focused route, which packs eight stops into about 70 to 75 minutes. I also like the way the tour gives space to lesser-known women and men accused of witchcraft, rather than treating the subject as a simple ghost story. The main caution is that much of the walk stays around Parliament Square and the Royal Mile, so you should not expect a full tour of Edinburgh’s underground vaults or a long city-wide hike.
Key things to know before you book

- The tour begins beside St Giles’ Cathedral at Caffè Nero, 192 Parliament Square, and finishes in Grassmarket.
- Juniper, Hazel, and Angelica are among the guides praised for lively, theatrical storytelling and clear historical detail.
- The walk covers witch trials from the 1500s to the 1700s, along with stories about Mary Queen of Scots, John Knox, warlocks, and public executions.
- You will walk over cobbles, steep streets, and steps, so sturdy shoes matter more than dressing for the theme.
- The group can reach 30 people, large enough for energy but sometimes challenging on crowded Royal Mile streets.
- At $24.96 per person, the value depends on how much you enjoy guided storytelling, since most stops are viewed from public streets rather than visited as paid attractions.
Why this tour shows Edinburgh from a different angle

A first look at Edinburgh often centers on the castle, the Royal Mile, and grand civic buildings. This tour uses those same places, but it asks different questions. Who lived here? Who was accused? Who was punished? Which stories were remembered, and which people were left out?
That change in viewpoint is the real reason to book. You are not simply walking between famous sights while hearing dates and architectural facts. You are following a thread of fear, superstition, law, and public spectacle through the Old Town.
The subject is grim. Accused witches were often women, and the tour does not gloss over the suffering caused by torture, fear, and superstition. At the same time, the guides add wit and theatrical energy, which keeps the hour from becoming heavy at every step.
Juniper receives especially strong praise for combining humor with a serious sense of justice. Hazel is described as warm, engaging, and respectful toward the people whose stories she tells. Angelica and Witch Hazel also bring plenty of energy, though you should remember that voices and accents can vary from guide to guide. One person found an accent harder to follow, and another had trouble hearing a microphone in poor weather.
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St Giles’ Cathedral and the sharp start in Parliament Square
Meet outside Caffè Nero at 192 Parliament Square, beside St Giles’ Cathedral. This is a useful starting point because you are immediately in the heart of the Old Town, surrounded by some of Edinburgh’s most important streets and buildings.
The opening stop takes about 10 minutes. You hear about St Giles, Scottish history, Mary Queen of Scots, and John Knox. The guide also explains why spitting on the floor in Parliament Square is considered acceptable, a local custom with a less polished side than the city’s grand stonework.
You do not need to pay an admission fee for the tour at this stop, though the cathedral itself is listed as having an admission ticket not included. The distinction matters. You should think of this as an outdoor storytelling stop, not a cathedral visit.
The guide’s performance style begins here. Expect a costumed or witch-themed presentation from some guides, with expressive gestures and a playful tone. That approach works well for a story-led walk, though it can draw attention from people passing through the square.
The Royal Mile and the North Berwick Witches

The next stop looks down the Royal Mile toward East Lothian. It lasts only about five minutes, but it helps widen the story beyond Edinburgh’s walls.
Here, the guide tells the tale of the North Berwick Witches. The location gives the story a sense of direction, since you can look toward the area connected with it rather than hearing the account in an enclosed room.
This is one reason the tour is more effective than reading a list of witch trial facts in a museum. The guide places each tale in relation to the city around you. You see the street, the view, the slope, and the nearby buildings while the story unfolds.
The tradeoff is that the Royal Mile is busy. The group may need to pause and gather before moving on, and you should stay close to the guide. Several guides are praised for waiting for the full group and taking care when crossing busy streets.
Lady Stairs House and Scotland’s literary connection

Lady Stairs House provides a quieter change of pace. The tour moves into a courtyard for roughly 10 minutes, where the guide shares gruesome history and connects the setting with Scotland’s National Poet.
The courtyard setting gives you a break from the main Royal Mile and its crowds. It also shows how much of Edinburgh’s character lies just beyond the main route. You are still close to the major sights, but the atmosphere feels more enclosed and personal.
An admission ticket is not included at this stop. The tour information does not promise a full indoor visit, so you should treat this as a place-based story stop rather than a museum admission.
This section also helps keep the tour from becoming a single string of witch trial anecdotes. Literature, politics, religion, and street life all enter the story. That wider context gives the walk more substance.
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Edinburgh Castle and the city’s beginnings

The castle stop lasts about 10 minutes. You hear how Edinburgh came to be, along with more stories connected to witches.
The castle itself is not presented as a full castle visit. The tour includes the surrounding viewpoint and history, but the admission price to enter Edinburgh Castle is not part of the $24.96 tour cost. If you want to explore the castle interiors, plan that separately.
This is an important point for budget planning. The tour gives you a guided introduction to the castle area, but it is not a substitute for spending several hours inside the castle complex.
Still, the stop works well in the walking route. After hearing about people accused of witchcraft in streets and courtyards, you get a broader look at the city that judged them. The castle helps shift the focus from individual tales to Edinburgh’s long political and social story.
The Witches Well and a small memorial with weight

The Witches Well is easy to miss if you are moving quickly through the Old Town. The tour pauses here for about five minutes to tell the story of another unfortunate person accused of witchcraft.
The stop is brief, but its value comes from attention. You might pass without understanding what the memorial represents. With a guide beside you, the small site becomes a prompt to think about how public memory works.
This is also one of the clearest moments when the tour’s serious purpose comes through. The theme is not only spells, ghosts, or theatrical costumes. It is also the treatment of vulnerable people and the long shadow left by persecution.
Upper Bow and the story of a warlock

At Upper Bow, the guide takes you to a high point overlooking an iconic street. The stop lasts about five minutes and centers on a shocking tale involving a warlock.
The view adds variety to the route. Much of the Old Town experience comes from close streets, stone walls, and narrow passages. Here, you get a broader look down the street while hearing another story tied to the city.
The stop is short, so do not expect a detailed history of Upper Bow itself. It works as a quick visual pause and a change from stories focused mainly on women accused of witchcraft.
Victoria Street and one of Edinburgh’s notorious figures

Victoria Street is the longest individual stop after St Giles’ Cathedral, with about 10 minutes devoted to the tale of one of Edinburgh’s most infamous characters.
The story takes place on the same cobbles beneath your feet. That physical connection is central to the tour’s appeal. Instead of hearing about a person in an abstract historical setting, you stand in the place associated with the story.
Victoria Street is also a popular route for shoppers and photographers, so the guide may need to project their voice and keep the group close. A theatrical guide such as Juniper can attract attention, which adds energy but can also make it harder to hear at the edge of the group.
If you have trouble hearing, move near the guide at the start of each stop. A group of up to 30 people is manageable, but narrow streets and passing crowds can spread people out.
Grassmarket and the grim ending
The walk ends at Grassmarket after about 15 minutes devoted to the area. This is the site of public executions and the setting for the story of Half-Hangit Maggie, one of Edinburgh’s most famous characters.
Ending here gives the tour a strong sense of place. You finish in a real public square with a long connection to punishment and spectacle, rather than simply returning to the starting point.
The final story also gives the guide room to end on a memorable character. Half-Hangit Maggie is not just a name attached to a plaque or a building. Her story has become part of Edinburgh’s popular memory, and the tour uses it to show how legend and history can overlap.
Grassmarket is a practical ending point, too. You are in an area with places to eat and easy access to other Old Town sights. The tour does not provide transport back to Parliament Square, but the route is compact enough that you remain in central Edinburgh.
What the guides do best
The guide makes or breaks this experience. The strongest part of the tour is not the number of stops. It is the way the guide holds the group’s attention while explaining difficult material in a public space.
Juniper is repeatedly praised for theatrical delivery, humor, energy, and passion. Hazel is described as warm and respectful, with a gift for treating a grim subject with care. Angelica is praised for making the history lively and engaging.
That style suits people who prefer stories to lectures. You will hear facts, but they arrive through characters and scenes. The guide may speak as a witch or use a witch-themed name, yet the content is not simply a fantasy performance.
The tone can change from funny to disturbing without much warning. That is appropriate to the subject, but you should be comfortable hearing about torture, executions, and persecution. The tour treats the suffering seriously, even when the guide uses humor to keep the pace moving.
Price, pace, and what you receive for $24.96
At $24.96, this is not the cheapest way to walk the Royal Mile. You can walk the same central streets for free. The value comes from having a guide connect the locations and tell stories you could easily miss on your own.
The tour lasts only 70 to 75 minutes, so it fits neatly into an afternoon between other plans. That short length is useful if you want an introduction rather than a full-day history program. It also means the experience moves quickly, with little time for questions or extended stops.
The route includes mostly free public locations. St Giles’ Cathedral and Lady Stairs House are listed with admission not included, and Edinburgh Castle entry is not part of the tour. You should not book this expecting included museum access.
There may be a brief look at an underground vault area near Barrie’s Close on some departures, but the experience should not be treated as a full vault tour. One account found the vault visit limited and not closely tied to the witch trial theme. If underground Edinburgh is your main goal, choose a dedicated vault experience instead.
The group maximum is 30 people. That is not an intimate private walk, but it is small enough for a guide to keep people together if everyone stays close. Busy streets, rain, and a weak microphone can affect how easily you hear.
Shoes, weather, and the Old Town route
Wear shoes with a good grip. The route crosses cobbles, steep streets, and steps, and the tour information calls for a moderate level of fitness.
Edinburgh weather can change the feel of the experience. Rain and strong wind have not stopped people from enjoying the storytelling, but wet cobbles and poor visibility make the walk less comfortable. Bring waterproof clothing rather than relying on an umbrella in narrow streets.
The route is not suitable for people who cannot manage Edinburgh’s uneven surfaces. Service animals are allowed, and the meeting point is near public transportation, but the practical challenge is the pavement itself.
Arrive with enough time to find Caffè Nero in Parliament Square. The walk finishes at 92 Grassmarket, so plan your next activity from there rather than from the starting point.
Who should book this walking tour
I would choose this tour if you like local history told through individual lives. It suits first-time visitors who want more than the standard castle and Royal Mile overview, as well as returning visitors looking for a different angle on familiar streets.
It is a good match for people interested in witch trials, women’s history, Scottish folklore, public punishment, or theatrical guides. The compact length also makes it useful for an afternoon when you have only an hour or two free.
I would hesitate if you want a scholarly lecture, a quiet private walk, or extensive access to indoor sites. The performance style is part of the attraction, but it may feel too showy if you prefer a restrained guide. You should also skip it if steep cobbles and steps are difficult for you.
Should you book it?
Book this tour if you want strong storytelling tied to real Old Town places, especially if Juniper, Hazel, or Angelica is leading your departure. The guides give the tour its value, and the best moments connect dark history with streets you might otherwise pass without a second thought.
Do not book it expecting a full Edinburgh Castle visit or a long underground vault tour. At $24.96, it makes sense as a focused introduction to witch trials and the city’s darker stories, not as a complete history of Edinburgh. For the right audience, the short route, memorable characters, and serious treatment of persecution make it a worthwhile addition to an Old Town day.
Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the start time. The experience requires a minimum number of participants, so a cancellation by the operator can result in another date or a full refund.
FAQ
Where does the Edinburgh Witches and Haunted History Walking Tour begin?
It begins at Caffè Nero, 192 Parliament Square, High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1RF, beside St Giles’ Cathedral.
Where does the tour finish?
The tour finishes at Grassmarket, at 92 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2JR.
How long does the walking tour last?
It lasts approximately 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 15 minutes.
Is the tour offered in English?
Yes. The tour is offered in English and uses a mobile ticket.
Is Edinburgh Castle admission included?
No. The tour includes a stop connected with Edinburgh Castle, but admission to the castle is not included.
Is the tour suitable for people with limited mobility?
The tour requires a moderate level of fitness and is not recommended for people who cannot manage cobbles, steep streets, and steps in Edinburgh’s Old Town.
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