Reviewed · EDINBURGH OLD TOWN WALKING TOURS
Curious Tales of the Royal Mile – Private Walking Tour
Edinburgh’s Old Town is packed with stories that sound invented but are not. On this private walk, local guide Dr Moray Grigor takes you from beneath Edinburgh Castle down the Royal Mile, through closes and back courts, using odd cases, feuds, scandals, and local legends to make the city’s past feel startlingly close.
I like the small private-group format, since Moray can adjust the pace and explain the details your group finds most interesting. I also like the unusual subject matter: a pet blackbird arrested in 1736, a washerwoman who made David Hume earn his rescue, and Robert the Bruce as Edinburgh Castle’s most dangerous enemy are far more memorable than a standard list of dates.
The main consideration is time. At four to five hours, this is a serious walking tour, not a quick introduction. It is also outdoors and weather-dependent, with no food or drink included, so good shoes, suitable clothing, and a planned refreshment break matter.
Key points at a glance
- Local guide with a personal connection: Dr Moray Grigor is an Edinburgh native who has collected unusual stories about the city for years.
- A private tour for your group: You set the pace more easily than on a large scheduled walk, which is useful for families and mixed-age groups.
- Six story-filled sections: The route runs from Castlehill to Canongate Kirk, with time in Advocates Close, around St Giles’ Cathedral, and along the Royal Mile.
- History told through odd incidents: Expect rebellious animals, political arguments, church disputes, financial schemes, theatre riots, and famous Edinburgh characters.
- No attraction admission fees: The tour provides guiding and commentary outdoors, while coffee and tea at the optional stop cost extra.
- A long Old Town walk: Allow four to five hours and prepare for Edinburgh’s slopes, closes, and uneven historic streets.
Why these strange stories work so well
A familiar city tour can leave you with a blur of kings, dates, and buildings. This experience takes another route. It uses the strange behavior of real people to help you understand how Edinburgh functioned.
A jailed blackbird opens the door to questions about law, property, and public life. A washerwoman’s demand before rescuing philosopher David Hume shows that famous thinkers were still part of a practical, sometimes sharp-edged community. Stories about fake news, two-faced businessmen, and novel financial products connect old Edinburgh with habits that feel remarkably modern.
That approach is especially useful on the Royal Mile, where the buildings can begin to look alike after a while. Moray’s tales give the streets a human scale. You are not simply walking past a close or a church. You are hearing about the people who argued, schemed, prayed, performed, misbehaved, and sometimes made fools of themselves there.
Moray Grigor is an Edinburgh native and a doctor, and his work as a guide is built around collecting local anecdotes. The material includes stories associated with Edinburgh publisher and author Robert Chambers, who gathered many of the city’s curious tales in the 19th century. The result should suit you if you prefer character and atmosphere to a formal lecture.
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Starting below Edinburgh Castle

The walk begins at Castlehill, just below Edinburgh Castle. This is a useful starting point because the castle gives the opening stories a strong setting, even though admission to the castle itself is not part of the tour.
The first section lasts about 20 minutes. Moray covers Bonnie Dundee’s escape from Edinburgh, Allan Ramsay’s appeal before the court, huge gang fights, and the city’s water problems. Those subjects set the tone quickly. You get military and political drama, but also the practical troubles of daily life in an old city.
The Bonnie Dundee story brings rebellion and movement into the picture. Allan Ramsay’s court appeal adds a legal and literary thread. The gang fights remind you that the Old Town was not always a polished heritage district. Water woes point to the basic problems that shaped urban life long before modern services.
This opening is short, which helps. You get your bearings without spending the first hour on one site. If you want a detailed tour inside the castle, you will need a separate visit and ticket.
Edinburgh’s odd citizens and public arguments

The second section, listed simply as Edinburgh, takes about 30 minutes. Here the stories turn toward rebellious pets, couples on opposite sides of politics, two-faced businessmen, philosopher-chefs, and fake news.
This is one of the strongest parts for visitors who enjoy social history. Rather than treating Edinburgh as a city populated only by rulers and famous writers, it brings in the odd personalities who made public life noisy and unpredictable.
The story of the arrested blackbird is a good example of the tour’s style. It is funny on the surface, but it also raises questions about how people understood ownership, nuisance, and authority. The tale involving David Hume and the washerwoman adds a different kind of humor. The rescue came with a condition, which gives the philosopher a more human and less monumental presence.
The political stories should also help you read the city’s old streets with more imagination. Couples could be divided by politics, business people could present different faces, and false reports could spread long before social media. These are compact stories, but together they show how reputation and argument shaped Edinburgh.
Advocates Close and the smaller stories

Advocates Close gets about 10 minutes, making it the briefest planned stop. That does not mean it is an afterthought. The narrow passage provides a good change of pace after the broader Royal Mile.
Here you hear about a lame would-be author involved in gang fighting, surprised judges, and mischievous little girls. The stories focus on people who do not fit the tidy image of respectable Old Town life.
A short stop like this works best when you enjoy details that might be missed on a standard route. Advocates Close is the sort of place where you could easily pass through without knowing what happened there. Moray’s commentary gives the passage a sharper identity.
You should expect the route to involve standing in historic streets and closes rather than settling into a seat. If anyone in your group needs frequent rest, tell the guide early. The private format makes a slower pace possible, and a previous family group benefited from adjusting the schedule and walking pace to suit children.
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St Giles’ Cathedral and Edinburgh’s church dramas

The stop at St Giles’ Cathedral lasts about 30 minutes. The stories here concern kings in debt, romantic silver spoons, prayer stools thrown inside the church, and an unusual resting place for one of Scotland’s best-known preachers.
This section shows that religious buildings were not always quiet or orderly spaces. Money, romance, anger, and public conflict could all enter through the doors. The detail about prayer stools being thrown gives the church a lively, physical history, while the story of the preacher’s resting place adds a more personal note.
The tour does not include an admission ticket, so you should not assume that this portion is an interior visit to the cathedral. The supplied details describe an outdoor tour with guiding and commentary. The value here is the context Moray provides around the building and the people connected with it.
I like this kind of stop because it keeps the architecture from becoming decorative background. St Giles’ is an important landmark, but the strange stories help you think about how the building was used, contested, and remembered.
One hour along the Royal Mile
The longest section lasts about an hour and stays on the Royal Mile. Its subjects include theatre riots, dull dances, beautiful women driven to distraction, new financial products, and full-scale rebellion.
This is the point where the tour’s title really earns its place. The Royal Mile is Edinburgh’s best-known historic street, yet its most useful details often sit between the major sights. A story about a theatre riot can show how public entertainment became a political flashpoint. A dull dance can reveal social habits more clearly than a formal description of a ballroom.
The financial stories are also valuable. Edinburgh has long been connected with ambitious business schemes and risky ideas. Hearing about early financial products beside stories of rebellion helps you see the Royal Mile as a place of commerce and argument, not just a ceremonial route between the castle and the palace.
Expect a mix of walking and standing during this hour. The private setting gives you room to ask questions, stop briefly, or spend more time on a story that catches your attention. That flexibility is harder to get on a large group walk.
Canongate Kirk and the final characters
The final planned stop is Canongate Kirk, where the tour spends about 25 minutes. The subjects shift to vicious poets, tragic royal favourites, and eccentric economists.
Canongate is a fitting end because it takes you farther down the Royal Mile and away from the castle setting. The stories here widen the focus again, connecting literary personalities, royal power, and unusual economic thinking.
The end point is just outside Canongate Kirk in Canongate, on the lower Royal Mile. That makes it practical if you want to continue exploring the area afterward. Moray has also pointed out details near the kirk that are easy to miss, including the location of Rizzio’s grave opposite a nearby café. If that particular detail interests you, ask about it during the walk.
The end point also means you are not returned to Castlehill. Plan your next stop from Canongate rather than assuming you will finish where you began.
What the private format means for families
This is a private activity, so only your group takes part. That matters most when your party includes children, older relatives, or people with different walking speeds.
A family that took the tour was able to move at its own pace, and the guide adapted the schedule so the children could stay engaged. That is a useful sign of what private guiding can offer here. The stories are unusual enough to interest younger listeners, but a four to five hour walk can still be a lot for small children.
I would ask for breaks when needed rather than trying to keep perfectly to the listed timing. The stop durations add up to a little over three and a half hours, while the full experience is approximately four to five hours. The extra time likely covers movement between locations, questions, and the optional refreshment stop.
The tour is described as suitable for most people, and service animals are allowed. It is near public transportation. Still, the route is an Old Town walking route, so anyone with mobility concerns should consider the duration, slopes, and historic closes before booking.
Price, group value, and what you receive
The listed price is $130.75 per person. That is not a bargain if you are comparing it with a large group orientation walk, but the comparison is not quite fair. This is a private four to five hour experience led by a local guide, with the chance to shape the pace and discussion around your own group.
The value improves when several people share the private booking, especially if a group discount applies. You are paying for time, access to a specialist’s collection of stories, and flexibility rather than admission to a major attraction.
There are no included tickets because the route is an outdoor walk. That keeps the price easier to understand. Coffee and tea are not included, though a refreshment stop can be added during the day.
The tour is booked an average of 145 days in advance, which suggests you should reserve early if your Edinburgh dates are fixed. Confirmation is sent within 48 hours, subject to availability.
Practical advice before you book
Wear comfortable shoes. The route moves through the Royal Mile, closes, and back courts, and you will spend much of the experience on foot. Bring clothing suited to Edinburgh weather, since the activity is outdoors and may be canceled in poor conditions.
Leave room in your schedule. A four to five hour walk can easily become the main activity of your day, especially if your group asks questions or takes the optional break.
Think about your preferred style of history. If you want a carefully organized account of Scotland’s monarchs or a full visit inside Edinburgh Castle, this is not the best match. If you enjoy odd incidents, local personalities, and stories that explain why a street or building feels unusual, it is a better fit.
Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the start time for a full refund. Changes or cancellations made less than 24 hours in advance are not refunded, and poor weather can lead to a new date or full refund.
Should you book Curious Tales of the Royal Mile?
Book this tour if you want Edinburgh told through its strangest people and incidents, not just its grand landmarks. It is especially well suited to families, private groups, repeat visitors, and anyone who likes a guide who can adapt the pace and follow a question.
Dr Moray Grigor’s local connection and personal collection of stories are the main reasons to choose it. The route also gives you a useful sweep from Castlehill to Canongate Kirk, with plenty of smaller lanes and overlooked details along the way.
Skip it if four to five hours of outdoor walking feels too long, or if you want extensive interior visits and formal sightseeing. For everyone else, the price can make sense when shared by a group, and the unusual subject matter should leave you with a far clearer memory of Edinburgh’s Old Town.
FAQ
How long does Curious Tales of the Royal Mile last?
The tour lasts approximately four to five hours.
Where does the tour begin?
It begins at Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1, just below Edinburgh Castle.
Where does the tour end?
It ends just outside Canongate Kirk in Canongate, on the lower Royal Mile.
Is this a private tour?
Yes. Only your group participates in the activity.
Who leads the tour?
The guide is Dr Moray Grigor, an Edinburgh native and collector of local stories.
Are food and drinks included?
No. Coffee and tea are not included, although the tour has an optional refreshment stop.
What happens if the weather is poor?
The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled because of poor weather, you will be offered another date or a full refund.
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