Reviewed · EDINBURGH OLD TOWN WALKING TOURS
Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!
Edinburgh’s past gets properly strange on this walk. You move from Greyfriars Kirkyard to the Grassmarket, the Royal Mile, Cowgate, and the University of Edinburgh, following stories of Mary, Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, Deacon Brodie, Burke and Hare, and the city’s famous little dog, Greyfriars Bobby.
I like two things right away: the private format lets Robert adjust the pace and subject matter, and the use of archive pictures and props helps you picture streets that have changed beyond recognition. The second plus is the route itself. It reaches Cowgate and other less-covered corners instead of stopping at the usual postcard views.
The main consideration is that this is a walking tour about dark subjects. Executions, murder, poverty, prison life, and body snatching are central to the story. You also need moderate physical fitness, and the tour depends on suitable weather.
Key points at a glance
- Robert leads with local experience: He is a lifelong Edinburgh resident and a teacher, and he brings humor as well as historical detail.
- The route covers five distinct areas: Greyfriars, Grassmarket, the Royal Mile, Cowgate, and the University of Edinburgh.
- Archive images make the past easier to picture: Your guide uses old photographs and other visual aids during the walk.
- The private pace is a real advantage: You can ask questions, pause, and spend more time on subjects that interest your group.
- The stories are not all gentle: Expect executions, the Tolbooth Prison, murder, Victorian poverty, and body snatching.
- It packs a lot into two hours: The tour gives you a useful Old Town orientation, though it does not include admission to major attractions.
Starting among the stones of Greyfriars Kirkyard

The tour begins just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, on Greyfriars Place. This is a fitting start. The graveyard is atmospheric, central, and full of stories that connect Edinburgh’s daily life with its legends.
The first 15 minutes focus on Greyfriars Bobby, the small dog associated with the cemetery. Robert explains that several versions of Bobby’s story exist, then lets you think about which version you believe. That approach is useful. Old cities collect legends, and a good guide should help you enjoy them without pretending every detail is settled fact.
Greyfriars also gives Robert room to explain how the Old Town developed around churches, burial grounds, narrow lanes, and crowded living conditions. He uses archive imagery to show how Edinburgh looked in earlier periods. You are not simply hearing a date and moving on. You are given a visual comparison between the city you see and the city that once occupied the same ground.
The cemetery itself is free, and there is no separate admission cost at any stop listed for the tour. Still, this is not a cemetery visit alone. It is the opening chapter of a walk about how Edinburgh remembered its famous people, punished its criminals, and turned grim events into stories.
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Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket
From Greyfriars, you head toward Candlemaker Row and the Grassmarket for about 25 minutes. The Grassmarket is one of the Old Town’s best-known spaces, but this tour treats it as a stage for people and events rather than as a place to photograph and leave.
One story concerns a major Scottish wedding and the pre-wedding party that passed through this part of town. The precise appeal here is the human detail. Instead of hearing only about kings and battles, you get a sense of how a public celebration affected Edinburgh and how people moved through the city before a wedding.
This section also begins the tour’s darker thread. The Grassmarket was associated with public executions, and the walk identifies former execution sites as part of Edinburgh’s past. The subject matter can be uncomfortable, but it explains why certain streets and squares carried such weight in the old city.
I like this stop because it links architecture to behavior. A broad space such as the Grassmarket was not just a market area. It could also be a place where crowds gathered for ceremony, punishment, commerce, and spectacle. Robert’s humor keeps the material approachable, but he does not make the grim parts disappear.
The Royal Mile, from Mary to Deacon Brodie

The longest section lasts around 40 minutes and follows several places along the Royal Mile. This is where the tour gathers its royal, political, and criminal threads.
You see where Mary, Queen of Scots spent part of her childhood, then visit a small courtyard with a royal connection. These stops are valuable because they shift your attention away from the Royal Mile’s main street. Edinburgh’s story often sits behind a doorway, down a close, or inside a courtyard that is easy to pass without a guide.
The walk continues with Deacon William Brodie, a respectable Edinburgh figure whose public life and private behavior became radically different. His hanging is part of the story. The tale works well on a walking tour because it is tied to specific streets and places, not presented as a detached biography.
You also get a brief history of St Giles, followed by the site of the old Mercat Cross. The cross was a central point for public announcements and civic life. Here, Robert explains its importance in the story of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie.
The Royal Mile section also includes an atmospheric Old Town close. A close is easy to overlook if you are walking alone, especially when the main street is busy. This is one of the tour’s strongest practical features: you are shown how to look beyond the obvious route.
The old close story is described as particularly memorable, and the overall tone of this section is mixed. Royal childhood, political ambition, public punishment, and private scandal all occupy the same compact part of Edinburgh. You should expect a brisk pace, but the private format means you can ask Robert to explain a point rather than simply collect names.
A short but useful look at Cowgate
Cowgate receives about 10 minutes, which is not long. Its value comes from the subject rather than the duration. The tour uses this area to explain what life was like for Edinburgh’s Victorian poor.
This is important context. The grand buildings and royal stories can make the Old Town look like a stage set for nobles and criminals. Cowgate brings ordinary hardship back into view. It points toward overcrowding, poverty, and the conditions faced by people who rarely appear in polished accounts of the city.
Do not expect a full social history in ten minutes. Instead, think of Cowgate as a corrective to the more famous parts of the route. It reminds you that Edinburgh’s past belonged to workers and poor families as much as to monarchs, politicians, and notorious lawbreakers.
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Burke and Hare at the University of Edinburgh
The University of Edinburgh section takes around 30 minutes and includes two stops. The first concerns Burke and Hare, the Irish murderers who sold bodies for dissection.
Robert explains how the pair operated, why they were able to kill so many people, and what eventually happened to them. This is one of the tour’s most arresting stories because it connects crime with medical education and the demand for cadavers. You get the practical mechanics of the case, not just the familiar names.
The subject is disturbing, and it may not suit young children or anyone who prefers lighter sightseeing. Still, it helps explain a difficult part of Edinburgh’s medical and criminal past. The tour does not present the murders as a spooky gimmick alone. It places them within the city’s wider need for bodies and the limits of legal supply at the time.
Robert may also draw attention to the traditional Highland clothing he wears. His kilt is part of his presentation, but the important point is his ability to mix visual character with useful explanation. Several comments about the tour praise his humor, energy, and willingness to answer questions. One particularly useful detail is that he works as a teacher, which helps explain the clear, story-led structure.
The final stop is near Old College, or inside it if access is available. The building looks impressive today, but the story connected with it is even more dramatic. It involves an explosive event in the literal sense. Since access inside depends on circumstances, do not book this tour expecting a guaranteed interior visit.
Why the guide makes the difference
A two-hour history walk can easily become a list of dates. Robert avoids that problem by asking about your interests at the start and shaping the experience around your group.
That matters most on a private tour. If you care about royal history, you can give more attention to Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie. If crime and medicine interest you, the Brodie and Burke and Hare stories may receive more discussion. Families can ask for explanations suited to younger listeners, though the subject matter remains dark.
Robert is described as a lifelong citizen of Edinburgh and a teacher by trade. His style combines facts, jokes, old images, and physical props. The kilt adds personality, while the archive photographs give you something concrete to compare with the modern streets.
The strongest praise focuses on clarity, humor, local perspective, and a comfortable pace. That combination is more useful than a guide who simply recites information. You get time to ask questions and connect each story with the place beneath your feet.
What the private format is worth
The listed cost is $117.84 per group of up to one person. That wording is unusual, so check the booking details carefully if more than one person will attend. The main value comes from the private setup rather than from included attractions. You are paying for Robert’s time, route planning, visual material, and ability to tailor the walk.
There are no admission tickets included because the stops are viewed from public areas, and the admission cost shown for each stop is free. That keeps the price easier to assess. If you want a tour that includes entry to Edinburgh Castle, St Giles, Old College, or other paid sites, this is not that product.
For one or a small private group, the price can make sense if you value personal attention and do not want to follow a large crowd. You can slow down, ask questions, or focus on specific family interests. If you mainly want a quick orientation and are happy with a group walk, a lower-cost option may suit you better.
The tour lasts about two hours. It starts at Greyfriars Kirkyard and usually finishes on South Bridge, around ten minutes from the starting point. That ending is practical for continuing through the Old Town, though the tour does not return you to the exact gate.
Practical details before you book
You receive confirmation at booking, and the ticket is mobile. The tour is offered in English and is private, so only your group takes part.
The route requires moderate physical fitness. You will be on foot for two hours, moving through several Old Town areas with regular stops. Wear shoes you can walk in comfortably, and plan for Scotland’s changeable weather. The experience requires good weather. If poor weather forces cancellation, you are offered another date or a full refund.
Service animals are allowed, and the start is near public transportation. The route includes historic streets and outdoor locations, so anyone with mobility concerns should ask for current route details before booking. Access to Old College is not guaranteed.
Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the start time for a full refund. Changes or cancellations made less than 24 hours before the start time are not accepted for a refund.
Who will enjoy this Edinburgh walk
I would choose this tour for a first visit when I wanted a strong Old Town introduction without giving up personal attention. It suits you if you enjoy stories about people, crime, royal politics, social hardship, and local legends more than a simple list of monuments.
It is also a good choice for families with older children, provided they are comfortable with grim subjects. The visual aids and props can keep young listeners involved, while Robert’s humor prevents the history from becoming too formal.
You may want another type of tour if you dislike walking, need guaranteed indoor access, or prefer a gentle introduction without executions and murder. It is also not a replacement for visiting Edinburgh Castle or touring St Giles from inside. This is a street-level history walk, not a museum ticket.
Should you book Private Old Edinburgh Tour?
Book it if you want a personal, story-driven walk led by a local guide who adjusts to your interests. Robert’s teaching background, humor, archive images, and use of props give the two hours a clear shape. The route also reaches Cowgate and Old Town passages that are easy to miss when you explore alone.
Skip it if the price feels high for a walk with no included admission, or if its dark subjects are not your style. For the right visitor, though, this is a smart way to get your bearings and understand why Edinburgh’s old streets carry such complicated stories.
FAQ
Where does the tour begin?
It begins just inside the main gate of Greyfriars Kirkyard, on Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ.
Where does the tour finish?
It usually ends on South Bridge, about ten minutes from the starting point at Greyfriars.
How long does the tour last?
The tour lasts approximately two hours.
Is this a private tour?
Yes. Only your group participates in the activity.
What language is the tour offered in?
The tour is offered in English.
Who guides the tour?
The guide is Robert, a lifelong Edinburgh resident and teacher by trade. He may also be referred to as Forrest.
What places does the route cover?
The route includes Greyfriars, the Grassmarket, the Royal Mile, Cowgate, and two stops connected with the University of Edinburgh.
Does the tour include Edinburgh Castle?
The tour includes views of Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop position, but the provided details do not include admission to the castle.
Is entry to the stops included?
The listed stops have free admission. Access inside Old College may be possible if it is open, but it is not guaranteed.
What happens if the weather is poor?
The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled because of poor weather, you are offered a different date or a full refund.
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